Chardonnay of the Year

Grgich Hills, 2004 Estate Grown, Napa Valley – $38: A classy Chardonnay in every respect, offering enticing aromas of acacia blossom, ripe Meyer lemon, honeysuckle, a touch of minerality and a modest dusting of French oak. Full bodied and elegant on the palate with excellent acid balance and expansive flavors of citrus, pear, quince, green apple and spice, this crisp, complex, food-friendly wine remains lively in the mouth, thanks to the absence of malolactic fermentation and the judicious use of French oak (one-third new); long, lemony close. (24,500 cases)

Top Ten Chardonnays of the Year

Beringer, 2004 Private Reserve, Napa Valley – $35: Ample honey notes lead to forward aromas of pineapple, white grapefruit, oak char and dusty ash. Thick flavors of mango, peach, vanilla, bee pollen and oak. Creamy close marked by pencil lead. (22,300 cases) – BL

Brewer-Clifton, 2004 Mount Carmel, Santa Rita Hills – $52: Pretty aromas of lemon-lime citrus, fresh lavender and nut butter. Creamy and silky smooth with tangy acidity, the wine exhibits a noticeable streak of minerality and a fascinating interplay of flavors resembling tropical fruit and tangerine citrus; long, seamless close. (288 cases)

Gary Farrell, 2004 Cresta Ridge Vineyard, Russian River Valley – $38: A touch shy, opening to fresh citrus peel, apple and oak aromas. Rather supple and inviting flavors of ripe pear, peach and vanilla. Loads of nectar-like fruit and a perfect amount of toasted oak mark the close. (604 cases)

Foley, 2004 Clone 76, Rancho Santa Rosa, Santa Rita Hills – $35: Forward, fragrant, appealing scents of tropical fruit, lemon blossom, pear, vanilla and toasted brioche accented by flinty minerality. Round and near luscious with excellent acidity, this very complex and noble Chardonnay offers the same copious flavors announced by the nose that are deep and intense. (167 cases)

Girard, 2005 Russian River Valley – $22: Fresh, pretty, aromatic scents of lime zest, tropical fruit and lemon blossom. Round, silky smooth and moderately creamy with cleansing acidity, this well-priced Chardonnay delivers complex flavors of succulent pear, lemon, honeydew melon and a subtle note of caramel; lingering, fruity close. Completely barrel fermented in French oak, ten months sur lie and native malolactic provide substance rather than weightiness. (5,500 cases)

Hanzell, 2004 Hanzell Vineyards, Sonoma Valley – $65: Slow-to-open nose of lightly honeyed white grapefruit, lemon chiffon, quince and pastry shell. Richly textured with crisp acidity that finely balances the fruit, the elegant flavors resemble a fruit tart composed of citrus, apple, poached quince and lightly toasted brioche, and are persistent and deep. Meant for ageing, decanting is recommended for this noble Chardonnay in the near term. (4,200 cases)

Lynmar, 2004 Quail Hill Vineyard, Russian River Valley – $40: Forward aromas of roasted lemon and pineapple atop lightly toasted brioche. Satiny smooth and elegant on the palate with lively acidity and abundant, layered flavors that match the nose, enhanced by lime zest, Gravenstein apple, crystallized ginger and wet pebble minerality, this French barrel-fermented, lees-stirred, full-malolactic Chard dances a slow waltz on the palate, trailing off in the extended finish with an impression of kiwi and verbena. Displays a fine pedigree. (1,529 cases)

Melville, 2005 Chardonnay, Clone 76-Inox, Estate Small Lot Collection, Sta. Rita Hills – $30: Fresh, very appealing aromas of lemon-lime citrus, spiced pear, peach skin, gardenia and garden tarragon after a light rain. Juicy and generous with copious, vivacious, clean flavors of slightly creamy citrus, honeydew melon, pear and dried pineapple with an undertone of crushed stone minerality, this unoaked, all-stainless-steel, no-malolactic Chardonnay is a joyful mouthful, perfect for oysters on the half-shell or spicy Thai chicken salad. Decanting recommended for this young wine. (915 cases)

Robert Mondavi, 2004 Reserve, Carneros-Napa Valley – $35: Attractive nose of lemon blossom, Golden Delicious apple and hazelnut. Intensely flavorful with crisp acidity supporting a silky, seamless texture, the wine is juicy, complex and decidedly elegant with copious flavors of citrus, tropical fruit and ripe pear laced with vanilla and cr?me br?l?e. A labor-intensive effort – mostly barrel fermented in French oak (eleven months in barrel), hand stirred during sur lie and partial malolactic – for this much Chardonnay, which makes the price seem quite fair. (81,277 cases) >

Morgan, 2004 Double L Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands – $35: Forward, lifted aromas of roasted lemon and tropical fruit accented by lychee, lightly toasted hazelnut and cr?me br?l?e. Velvety smooth and impressively powerful on the palate with precisely focused flavors that replicate the nose buoyed by cleansing acidity and a subtle oak nuance, this is an exciting Chardonnay expression of the region. (1,200 cases)

Shafer, 2004 Red Shoulder Ranch, Carneros – $43: Bold as ever and showing plenty of oak spice from complete barrel fermentation and 14 months in 50 percent new oak (mostly French), this full-bodied Chardonnay offers exciting, almost breathtaking, aromas and flavors of stone fruit, pineapple, Comice pear and citrus zest, a luscious palate and lively natural acidity thanks to the prevention of malolactic fermentation and the capable winemaking talents of Elias Fernandez. Requiring elaborately flavored cuisine for pairing, or simply to be enjoyed on its own as a stunning example of Carneros Chardonnay at full tilt. (6,000 cases)

Talbott, 2003 Cuv?e Cynthia, Monterey County – $55: Forward, appealing aromas of ripe tropical fruit, sweet lemon, white peach, toasted brioche and cinnamon spice translate nicely to an opulently textured palate where the abundant flavors are deep, rich and concentrated, and supported by vibrant acidity. Bottled unfined and unfiltered with no cold stabilization in the grand cru tradition, this exquisitely flavored wine throws some harmless tartrate crystals at the bottom of the bottle, which is an insignificant annoyance for all that richness, flavor and acidity. (800 cases)

Talley, 2004 Rosemary’s Vineyard, Arroyo Grande Valley – $45: Forward, intense, appealing aromas of tropical fruit, green apple, Meyer lemon, toasted hazelnut, freshly grated nutmeg and minerals. Creamy and full bodied with vibrant acidity, this beautifully balanced, cool-climate Chardonnay shows impeccable breed with deep flavors that echo the nose accented by medium-char French oak, finishing long with evident minerality. A “full-blown” (100% barrel fermentation/100% ML) Chardonnay that nevertheless allows the remarkable terroir character of the vineyard (in close proximity to the ocean) to show through. (400 cases)

Other Outstanding Chardonnays

Brewer-Clifton, 2004 Rancho Santa Rosa, Santa Rita Hills – $46 (432 cases)

Brewer-Clifton, 2004 Sweeney Canyon, Santa Rita Hills – $60 (168 cases)

Foley, 2004 Clone 96, Rancho Santa Rosa, Santa Rita Hills – $35 (168 cases)

Grgich Hills, 2003 Estate Grown, Paris Tasting Commemorative, Carneros-Napa Valley – $75 (889 cases)

Handley, 2004 Handley Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley – $19 (2,403 cases)

Morgan, 2004 Hat Trick, Double L Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands – $60 (140 cases)

Morgan, 2004 Rosella’s Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands – $35 (120 cases)

Morgan, 2005 Metallico, Monterey (tank fermented, neutral oak, no ML) – $20 (5,000 cases)

Nickel & Nickel, 2004 Searby Vineyard, Russian River Valley – $40 (1,515 cases)

Nickel & Nickel, 2004 Truchard Vineyard, Carneros-Napa Valley – $40 (1,802 cases)

Saintsbury, 2004 Brown Ranch, Carneros – $40 (945 cases)

Sea Smoke, 2002 Gratis, Santa Rita Hills – $N/A (250 cases)

Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, 2005 Karia, Napa Valley – $32 (20,500 cases)

Talbott, 2002 Cuv?e Audrey, Diamond T Estate, Monterey – $75 (220 cases)

Talley, 2004 Rincon Vineyard, Arroyo Grande Valley – $38 (490 cases)

Truchard, 2004 Carneros-Napa Valley – $30 (1,728 cases)